Monday, September 19, 2016

3d Star Wars Imperial Assault - Mission Aftermath

I'm only three tiles short of a complete recreation of the first mission of the Campaign for Star Wars Imperial Assault. However, with those three tiles missing the game is still playable.

I found some cork tiles that were the same thickness as the plaster floor tiles, so I cut them into 1.5" squares, painted them brown, and glued the occassional shrub onto it for outdoors terrain. A couple of blue ones for the water terrrain.

I had some tiny 'wooden' plaster chests for a fantasy game, and by standing them on their sides, I coul place the counters for the Star Wars computer consoles on top, to make them look 3D too.

Anyway, here's a pic to see how it's looking so far! As usual, click the picture for a bigger image.

It looks better once there are figures inside the bunker, but I left it empty so as not to spoil the game for people who haven't played it yet.

Hirst Arts 3D Map making

So I moved on from overland hex maps to full 3D Interiors again. Some of you who have been with this blog for a long time might remember ages ago I bought a bunch of Hirst Arts 3D plaster moulds and was going to create a 3D plaster space station interior?

I did a bit of casting back then but didn't get very far. Part of the problem was that I was making it with full height walls, and gluing pieces together to make whole rooms as a single 'map piece', and after making a single room and a passage segment, it took up SOOO much storage space.

So I've changed tack. I'm back to casting plaster 3D scenery - but I'm doing it as a 'cut-away' 'invisible walls' style, and I'm not gluing pieces together - they're all loose and separate so they can be arranged in any way and packed up easily.

Sorry about the quality of the photo, it was hand-held snapped with my ipad.

So basically what we see here, is 1.5" floor tiles, and dividing the rooms and passageways are half an inch thick dividers. The dividers mark the walls of my map, but they are only half an inch wide and stand only half an inch higher than the floor. This means the 'walls' don't block a player's vision.

I can then sit 3D scenery objects, figures, counters, and so forth, and the walls don't get in the way, but they are still visible and 3D enough that you can clearly make out the boundaries of rooms and passageways.

The other thing I did, is nothing is glued together or attached to template boards. Every individual floor tile is an individual piece, so I can just stack them on a shelf for storage without it taking up space. The dividers are lots and lots of small pieces that I can lay out around the edge of floor tiles to make different shapes. None of the pieces are glued to each other, so its all loose and easy to pack away or to lay out on the table in a different shape.

My goal at the moment is to make enough floor tiles and wall dividers and scenery objects to cover half of my rectangular gaming table, then on the other half I can have dice rolling, stat sheets, rule books, and so forth. So it should be good once it's all done up!

My painting method for map pieces is:

1) Coat all plaster objects with Finish - Classic Victorian gray acrylic house paint. Yes - house paint! After years using tiny bottles of miniatures paint, I realised I could mix up a whole tin of house paint for just $10 at the local hardware store. So I've got things like medium-gray in BULK now, and while the tin smells a lot while painting, and takes longer to dry than miniatures-specific paints, once something has dried, it works just great, and I've only used about 10% of the tin of paint in the last six years, so it's definitely worth the money!

2) paint the cables running around the wall dividers in bright orange.

3) wash everything in 'badab black' Games Workshop's black wash.

4) drybrush the top-surfaces of the wall dividers in a medium gray to brighten it up and set it apart more from the floors.

I'm also planning to paint a lot of the scenery objects in a kind of 'construction yellow' look, but I'm still thinking about that.

The door, computer console, yellow crate, and storage locker, are also plaster pieces cast from the Hirst Arts moulds. There's all kinds of cool stuff to make out of plaster in the moulds I bought. One thing I'll be casting some of, is there are floor tiles with metal grills in them, to represet hatches that can be opened to enter crawl-spaces. So maps might have access shafts or ventilation shafts that people can hop down into, and then after a number of turns, pop up through a hatch somewhere else on the ship! I thought that could be fun :)

Monday, August 1, 2016

3d plaster hexes

I've started making new scenery. 3D plaster hexes to go on printed paper map sheets. It should work nicely for grid based battles with any type of game - star wars, fantasy, giant robots, doctor who, etc. You can read about it on my scenery blog.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Kossk Zegdarr, Star Wars Imperial Assault custom hero

I saw on the Fantasy Flight Games forums, a method for assigning stats to create a custom hero. I like two of the characters in the game, but I thought, it would be neat to have a character with a mix of special abilities from both of them, and I liked the idea of being able to use more than one weapon, so I balanced the points and cards, and created my own custom hero and ability card set!

I call this hero Kossk Zegdarr, a Nautolan from the old Wizards of the Coast Star Wars Battles game, which is the same scale as Imperial Assault. So I repainted him in a custom paint scheme, and then created a set of cards for him in a program I use called Corel Draw.

His abilities are a mix of cards from Jyn Odan and Fenn Signis.

This is how he turned out.

And these are the custom cards I made for the Imperial Assault game.

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Model Kit: Working on Bandai Y-Wing part #3

Here's some more progress on the 1/72 scale Y-Wing model, with the 1/72 R5 astromech, and a Micro Machines rebel pilot. I quite like how the micro machines scale figures look next to the 1/72 scale model kits. It was really difficult with some of the pipe / cable pieces on the model, and in the end I decided I would be happy attaching as many as I could, but not worry if some of the tiny pieces broke along the way, since the Original Trilogy Y-Wings were supposed to be old / run-down vehicles. I think I only snapped around five or six of the pipes, so I still got dozens of them attached and I love the detail of the model so far.

Friday, April 29, 2016

Model Kit: Working on Bandai Y-Wing part #2

First, here's some pics. I'm working on the body section.

The small detail bits like piping and stuff are actually separate pieces I had to plug into the model! Here's one of the sprues showing lots of tiny pieces. Each tiny pieces has little plugs jutting out of them that you plug into holes in the model to click them into place!

Here's the 35mm scale Fantasy Flight Games R2-D2 figure, next to the 1:72 scale astromech model. The tiny astromech I am guessing to be between 20mm and 25mm figure scale. You can choose to have an R2 or R5 head on it, an I've always liked thee flat-conical tops on R5's so I chose that to be my astromech. Luckily, as I said, everything clicks together - I haven't tried it yet, but I should be able to pull the head off and swap it if I felt like it.

My first disappointment with the kit so far:

The slot the astromech goes into, in the body of the Y-Wing, is assembled in such a way as you have to have an astromech in it, or not, you can't pull the droid in and out of the ship! This is because when assembling the model, it sandwiches the body of the droid in place, and then you attach the droid's head.

Once the ship is assembled, if the droid's body is in there, you can't get it out. So I had to choose - do I want the model to have a droid in it, or do I want to have a miniature figure of the droid, and I chose to keep the droid out of the ship's slot. They really should have made the construction of the ship such that you could place or remove the droid as you pleased, rather than it being one or the other.

However, other than that, everything is going well so far.

One thing I should have noted on the last post, is that the cockpit stickers that come with it can not be used by default - the cockpit has 3D sculpted dials and buttons. To use the illustrated sticker control panel, you would have to cut / sand off all the sculpted details! I thought that was really odd, and I chose to have a painted cockpit rather than using the stickers.